Installation Guide
Installation guide
Installing cabinet hardware is one of the easiest DIY projects in home renovation — most pieces take 5–10 minutes per cabinet, and the only required tool is a screwdriver. This guide walks through both replacement installation (swapping new hardware into existing screw holes) and new installation (drilling fresh holes), plus common pitfalls to avoid.
If your hardware hasn't arrived yet, our Sizing Guide covers how to measure for the right size before ordering.
Tools you'll need
For replacement installation (existing holes)
- Phillips-head screwdriver — the only required tool
- Measuring tape — to verify hole spacing
- A clean cloth for wiping the cabinet front
For new installation (drilling new holes)
- Phillips-head screwdriver
- Measuring tape
- Pencil for marking
- Painter's tape (1" / 25mm wide)
- Drill with a Phillips bit and drill bit set
- Level (a 6" / 15cm pocket level is enough)
- Awl or center punch (optional but helpful)
You don't need a workshop. A drill that takes standard ¼" bits is enough — a $40 cordless drill from any hardware store does the job for life.
Before you start
A 60-second pre-flight check that prevents 90% of installation problems:
- Verify your hardware matches the size you ordered. Take one piece out and measure the center-to-center distance with a ruler. Confirm it matches the size listed on your order confirmation
- Confirm the screws are long enough for your cabinet doors. Standard cabinet doors are ¾" / 19mm thick — included screws are sized for this. If your doors are thicker, you'll need longer screws (see Special cases below)
- Lay out all hardware and screws before mounting any. Drawer hardware and door hardware sometimes look similar but use different screw lengths
- Have a second person available for long pulls or appliance pulls. Anything over 192mm is easier with two hands holding the pull while a third hand drives the screw
Replacement installation (existing holes)
This is the most common scenario — you're swapping new hardware into an existing kitchen, bathroom, or wardrobe.
Step 1 — Remove the old hardware
Open the cabinet door or drawer. From the inside, use your screwdriver to back out the existing screws. The old hardware will fall away — catch it before it scratches the front of your cabinet.
If a screw won't turn (corroded, painted over, or stripped), apply firm downward pressure on the screwdriver while turning. If it still won't move, see Troubleshooting: stripped screws below.
Step 2 — Clean the area
Wipe the cabinet front around the old screw holes with a clean cloth. Years of fingerprints, cooking grease, or polish residue can keep new hardware from sitting flush.
If the old hardware left a visible outline (where the back of the pull pressed against the cabinet over years), don't panic — the new hardware will usually cover it. If not, a magic eraser usually removes the outline.
Step 3 — Position the new hardware
Hold the new pull or knob over the existing holes. The two screw holes on the back of the pull should line up exactly with the holes in the cabinet front.
If the new hardware doesn't line up — even by 2–3mm — you've ordered a different center-to-center size. Check your Sizing Guide and contact hello@archandles.com before forcing the screws.
Step 4 — Insert screws from the inside
From inside the cabinet door or drawer, insert the included screws through the existing holes and start threading them into the back of the new hardware. Don't tighten yet — just get both screws started.
Step 5 — Tighten gradually
Tighten both screws in alternating quarter-turns until snug. Stop when the hardware sits firmly flush against the cabinet front — do not over-tighten. Over-tightening can crack laminate, dent painted MDF, or strip the screws on the back of the hardware.
A properly installed pull should not wobble when you push or pull on it, but you should be able to remove the screws by hand turning if needed.
New installation (drilling new holes)
If you're working on new cabinets, replacing knobs with pulls (which need 2 holes instead of 1), or moving hardware to a different position, follow these steps.
Step 1 — Decide placement
See the Where to position hardware section below for recommended positions by cabinet type.
For drawers, hardware is typically centered horizontally and vertically on the drawer front.
For cabinet doors, hardware sits 2½–3" / 60–75mm from the top corner of the door (for cabinets above counter height) or from the bottom corner (for cabinets below counter height).
Step 2 — Apply painter's tape
Stick a strip of painter's tape across the area where you'll drill. The tape does two things: prevents the drill bit from skating across the surface, and prevents chipping of paint or laminate as the bit breaks through.
Step 3 — Mark the screw hole positions
Hold the new hardware against the cabinet in your chosen position. With a pencil, mark the center of each screw hole through the back of the pull onto the painter's tape.
For drawers, double-check that your two pencil marks are level — eyeballing it is fine for one drawer, but for a row of drawers, use a level to keep them consistent.
Step 4 — Punch a starter dimple (optional but recommended)
Use an awl or center punch to make a small dimple at each pencil mark. This stops the drill bit from wandering when you start drilling.
Step 5 — Drill pilot holes
Choose a drill bit slightly smaller than the screw shaft (typically ⅛" / 3mm for standard cabinet hardware screws). Drill straight through the cabinet front at each marked spot, holding the drill perpendicular to the surface.
If the cabinet door is solid wood (oak, maple, walnut), pilot holes are required — without them, the screws may split the wood. If the door is MDF, plywood, or particle board, pilot holes prevent chip-out.
Step 6 — Remove the tape and clean
Peel the painter's tape away. Wipe any dust off the cabinet front.
Step 7 — Mount the hardware
Position the new hardware over the freshly drilled holes. From inside the cabinet, insert screws and tighten gradually, alternating between the two screws — same as Step 4–5 in the replacement section above.
Where to position hardware
Standard placement guidelines by cabinet type. These are conventions, not rules — if your kitchen design has a specific placement in mind, follow that.
Drawers
| Drawer height | Pull position |
|---|---|
| Up to 6" / 15cm | Centered vertically, centered horizontally |
| 6–10" / 15–25cm | Centered (or 1" / 25mm above center for visual lift) |
| 10"+ / 25cm+ | Centered horizontally; vertically positioned in the upper third |
Cabinet doors above counter (kitchen wall cabinets)
Hardware sits in the lower-outside corner of the door (so it's reachable):
- Knob: 2½–3" / 60–75mm from the bottom corner, on the outside edge of the door
- Pull (vertical): bottom of the pull 2½–3" from the bottom corner
Cabinet doors below counter (base cabinets)
Hardware sits in the upper-outside corner of the door:
- Knob: 2½–3" / 60–75mm from the top corner, on the outside edge of the door
- Pull (vertical): top of the pull 2½–3" from the top corner
Pantry, wardrobe, and full-height doors
Hardware sits roughly halfway down the door, mounted vertically:
- For doors 30–48" / 75–120cm tall: position at 40–50% of door height
- For doors 48"+ / 120cm+: position at 45% of door height (slightly above center for visual balance)
Appliance pulls (refrigerator, dishwasher panels)
Centered horizontally, mounted vertically. For double-door fridges, the pulls go on the outside edges of each door, mirrored.
Common mistakes to avoid
- Don't over-tighten. Stop when the hardware is flush and snug. Cabinet doors made of MDF or particleboard crack under excessive screw pressure
- Don't drill without painter's tape on painted or laminate doors. The bit will chip the finish on the way out
- Don't skip the pilot hole on solid wood. It will split
- Don't measure once. Measure twice, drill once. A misaligned drawer pull is hard to fix without filling the hole and starting over
- Don't mix metric and imperial without checking. A 96mm pull and a 4" pull look identical from across the room but are 5mm different — won't fit the same holes
- Don't tighten one screw fully before starting the second. Cross-tighten in alternating quarter-turns so the hardware seats evenly
- Don't install in low light. Bring a desk lamp to the kitchen if needed. Small alignment issues are invisible in dim light
Troubleshooting
Handle wobbles after installation
Two common causes:
- Screws aren't fully tight. Open the cabinet, tighten both screws another quarter-turn (don't over-tighten — see above)
- Screw threads are stripped. Remove the hardware, fill the screw holes in the back of the hardware with a small amount of wood filler or toothpicks soaked in wood glue, let dry, and re-screw
Screws strip the cabinet
If a screw turns endlessly without tightening, the wood inside the cabinet front has stripped. Remove the screw, push 1–2 wooden toothpicks into the hole with a drop of wood glue, snap off any excess, let dry for 30 minutes, and re-screw. The toothpicks give the screw fresh material to bite into.
Pull doesn't sit flush
Either there's debris between the hardware and the cabinet front (clean the area with a cloth) or the cabinet front itself isn't flat at that point (rare on factory cabinets, occasional on hand-made or older cabinets). For uneven cabinet fronts, a thin felt washer behind the pull bridges the gap.
Existing holes don't quite line up with new hardware
The most common cause: ordered the wrong center-to-center size. Measure your existing holes again using the Sizing Guide. If the size is correct but holes are off by 1–2mm, slightly enlarge the pilot holes with a drill bit one size up. If holes are off by more than 3mm, you'll need to fill the old holes with wood filler, sand flush, and drill new ones.
Stripped or seized old screws (during removal)
Apply firm downward pressure with a properly sized Phillips screwdriver while turning. If still stuck, try a manual impact driver, or — last resort — drill the screw head off, remove the old hardware, and extract the remaining screw shaft with pliers.
Special cases
Cabinet doors thicker than ¾" (19mm)
Custom-built solid-wood doors and some Shaker-style doors are 7⁄8" (22mm) or 1" (25mm) thick. Standard included screws are sized for ¾" doors and will be too short.
Replacement screws are available at any hardware store:
- For 7⁄8" – 1" doors: 1¼" / 32mm screws
- For 1" – 1¼" doors: 1½" / 38mm screws
Bring one of the original Archandle screws to the hardware store to match the thread pitch and head type.
Hollow doors
Hollow-core cabinet doors (uncommon but exist on lower-cost cabinetry) require wall anchors rated for the cabinet door material. Standard screws will spin freely in hollow doors.
Glass-front cabinet doors
Drilling glass requires a diamond-tipped drill bit, water lubrication, and patience. If you're not experienced with drilling glass, ask a glass shop or cabinet installer to drill the holes — typically $15–30 per door.
Painted or lacquered doors
Always use painter's tape before drilling and mounting. Tighten by hand to "snug" — not "wrench-tight" — to prevent the back of the hardware from compressing and cracking the paint film.
Still need help?
For any installation question — including photos of unusual cabinet configurations or troubleshooting a stuck install — email hello@archandles.com with photos. We've seen most issues and reply within one business day with specific guidance.
For sizing questions, see our Sizing Guide.